Powdercoated my grill for an #RA28 and smiley bumper brackets for a 72 #TA22. Both are “gloss stealth charcoal” and look absolutely amazing!!!
Welded up 35 sets of #ra28 #ra23 hood hinges! Assembled and shipped 10 raw sets and sent the rest for powdercoat!
I used my laser engraver to engrave my company logo into my powdercoated hood prop! #ra23 #ra28
Roller bearing hood hinges! I’ve always wanted to convert my icky old hood hinges that don’t work properly to roller bearings. The factory bushings worked pretty well 40 years ago, but not so much today.
Pretty much every set of hinges I’ve ever come across have been bent and didn’t work right. It both my Celica’s when I pop the hood I have to kind of shake it to get the hood hinge to pop up like it’s supposed to. They’re all bent, and one in my dads Celica has a bolt instead of a rivet holding it together.
The problem is that the bushings are VERY high friction. It’s bare metal on the sliding surfaces, and it only takes a little moisture for those sliding surfaces to rust, causing them to catch and bend the entire hinge. Once they’re bent it’s difficult to get them back straight and in a condition where they will work properly. I’ve always just dealt with it but now I’m fixing it once and for all!
I grabbed one of my hinges and tore it apart. I sandblasted all the rust and paint off. The hard part was that the holes where the rivets are were too big for the inner race of the flange bearing to sit on, and without that mating surface the bearing wouldn’t work properly. To fix that I welded all the holes shut, ground the surface flat, then drilled and tapped the holes for an M6 bolt (same size that holds the fender on).
The bearings in the pictures are too big to use, but the proper bearings are on order. The bearing I’m going to use is a 6x13x5 flanged bearing. I will only need to drill the existing holes out to the proper 13mm size to press the bearings into the swing arm things.
Also, while welding the ball stub onto the throttle linkage, it melted the plastic bushing inside. So I tore that apart and ordered the right size bearings to convert that to roller bearing as well! Roller bearing all the things!!!
The possibility exists that I may manufacture and market these as a complete set in the future, but don’t hold your breath. Too many irons in the fire right now!
The motor would run well when cold, but as soon as it warmed up, it would run absolutely awful. It would misfire constantly and stall at every stop. Once it stalled it would be impossible to restart. I deduced it was ignition related. I hate distributors. I had converted this one to electronic ignition with parts from a 22R electronic distributor, so I knew there were no problems with the points (because there were none). The coil was new (Autozone special) so that wasn’t the problem. I changed all the wires with a known good pair and it didn’t change it. I still don’t know exactly what was causing it.
I bought an 18RG pulley with a 36-1 tooth wheel welded to it along with a VR sensor and sensor mount from my friend Stu many years ago. I ended up using the sensor on my 77 Corolla EFI conversion, and I lost the 18RG mount. 🙁
I just crushed the Corolla the EFI was in so I had the system sitting on the shelf. I decided to install the Megasquirt quickly just to control the ignition. When I convert the entire motor to EFI I’m going to use a Megasquirt MS3X and will have sequential injection and ignition. That will be different post though, and likely a winter project (because I’m DEFINITELY not driving it in winter any more!)
After I had it installed, the engine fire up immediately on the first crank! After cleaning up the install a little, (I put the Megasquirt at the passenger floor after pushing the wires through the grommet hole.
I pulled the factory distributor and plugged the 18RG dizzy hole.
I had to build a new VR sensor mount. Luckily it was very simple. Basically a bent piece with holes in it. 20 minutes and I had it ready.
I need to make this gap a bit smaller, but it works for now. (The RPM signal will likely start to break up at higher RPM’s with this big of a gap)
It ran when I had all this just sitting up on top. But I couldn’t drive it like that.
I pulled off the fender to route the wires inside. You can see some of my other “amazing” wiring work from 5 years ago when I did a wire tuck. It all works.
I modified these Megasquirt wiring diagrams to fit what I did with my harness.
I drove it 10 miles today in a single drive and it didn’t stall once! So I *think* it’s ready to go to the car show tomorrow. 🙂
I could only find one of my fender mirrors. The other has just disappeared. My son probably hid it somewhere. I’ll show some more pictures later today.
Anybody need an electronic 18RG distributor?