I’m 99% done with the EFI wiring! I wasn’t able to order in all the connectors I needed in time before the show, so some connections are scabbed together with old connectors. You should always do your best to use new connectors as much as possible. If you can’t get new connectors, at least get new pins and a decent set of crimpers!

The pins that are on the battery are for the EDIS module. That connector isn’t available new, but at least I can crimp new pins.

The fusebox/relay panel is mounted just behind the battery. All the wires run up through the frame tube thing right there, and come out roughly at the same spot where the round bulkhead connector is. All the wires from the fusebox run through two connectors so I can remove the entire harness if needed.

I don’t yet have an electric fan, but I wired in all the provisions I will need (ie a fuse and relay). The fan will be triggered from the FIDLE output in the Megasquirt.

The oil pressure sensor works great, and I have a nice 27 PSI while cranking. (Don’t know how much while running, I didn’t look.)

I still need to wire the capacitive fuel level sender into the Megasquirt. I’ve already modified the Megasquirt, I just need to actually hook up the wires. Calibrating it should be relatively easy. I’m going to empty the tank, then put in 1.5 gallons. That will be my “EMPTY” level. Then I’ll fill it up, and set that as my “FULL” level. The sender has two adjustment pots on it to adjust the two levels, or I’ll just adjust it in TunerStudio.

I wanted to put in a fuel pressure sensor as well, but MS2 only has two spare ADC’s, and they’re being used for oil pressure and fuel level. I’d like to upgrade to MS3, but that won’t be in the cards for a while.

The fuel plumbing is now mostly done. Only one small piece left, and that’s to go from the FPR back to the return line. Need to figure a way to go from ¼" line on the regulator, to the 3/8" aluminum line. Not too tough.

My wife helped me install the fuel filters. We have one filter between the factory low pressure pump and the surge tank, and one filter on the high pressure line right before the fuel rail.

The Megasquirt will sit right behind the kick panel at the passengers feet, and the fuse/relay box will sit right behind the battery under the hood. I need to make the Megasquirt fit a little better behind the panel, but it works just fine for now to just get it running.

I ran a thermostat bypass hose from the underside of the lower intake to the back side of the water pump. This ensures that water will circulate through the block and head allowing it to warm up evenly. This also ensures I have an accurate reading of the actual coolant temperature, which is very important for EFI.

There’s a little bit left to finish off the plumbing for the surge tank. I still need to run wires for the pump, but that’s easy. My original design was too tall to fit under the metal thing in the back, so I cut out about 1.5" and welded it back together. Now it fits nicely. I just need to bend the aluminum lines and connect them, then it’s done in the back!

I don’t think my Celica ever had a heater valve in it. I always just had a “C” clamp and two quarters to shut off the hot water during the summer. I want to be a little less ghetto this time around so I searched eBay and found a heater valve from a Ford something or other. I had to build a bracket and find a molded 5/8" coolant hose that would fit, but it all goes together nicely. The heated coolant will go from the bottom center of the manifold, to the valve, through the heater core, then to the side of the water pump behind the header. I ran aluminum tubing behind the header because it’s too hot back there for rubber hoses.

I will need to buy a new heater control cable that’s a bit longer to reach the new shut off valve, and while I’m buying that, I’m going to replace all the other control cables. That’ll be detailed in another post though.

The guy I bought the engine from said he had it at 7k RPM and the oil pressure went to zero. He immediately shut it off, but though he heard some rod knock. He was right. I found metal shavings in the oil pan, and the bearings were toast. To my great delight and relief though there was zero damage to the crank or rods! So a new set of bearings and I’m good to go. Compression on #1 came up right where it needed to be after reassembling it. 

I ran my new 3/8 aluminum fuel lines for the EFI conversion. My almost 4 year old daughter Natilee wanted to help me so she crawled under the car with me and asked what she could do.:)

Put the motor back together with the transmission after throwing on a new clutch, then popped it into the car. Didn’t take very long to get it in. I still have a few small parts to order, but it should start going together quickly now!

Found there was no compression in cylinder 1 on the new motor. Cylinders 2,3, and 4 all had 175-180 psi, but 1 had 18 psi. Leak down test showed it was all going out the intake valve. Pulled the head and the valve and found there were carbon chunks smashed on the valve seat preventing it from closing. After cleaning it off if seems to seal better now. Won’t know for sure though until the gasket set comes in the mail tomorrow.

Also finished off the throttle linkage conversion. It runs on bearings and is nice and smooth. 🙂

Also bought a tool that will make a nice bead on the end of the new aluminum fuel lines.

Roller bearing hood hinges are wonderfully smooth!!! The bearings came in and in my excitement I didn’t take very many pictures. Sorry about that. I broke several of the bearings while I was experimenting with them, so I only had enough to do the one hinge. But I’ve ordered in a whole bunch more.

I’ll take more pictures and make a little bit of a “how to” when I pull out my other broken set of hinges and show you beginning to end how I did it.

We took my 18RG out of my Celica and all my spare RG parts up to Seattle and traded it for a nicely rebuilt 22R. It will be a 22RE using Megasquirt when I put it in. We also took up a bunch of our fiberglass parts in trade.

Roller bearing hood hinges! I’ve always wanted to convert my icky old hood hinges that don’t work properly to roller bearings. The factory bushings worked pretty well 40 years ago, but not so much today. 

Pretty much every set of hinges I’ve ever come across have been bent and didn’t work right. It both my Celica’s when I pop the hood I have to kind of shake it to get the hood hinge to pop up like it’s supposed to. They’re all bent, and one in my dads Celica has a bolt instead of a rivet holding it together. 

The problem is that the bushings are VERY high friction. It’s bare metal on the sliding surfaces, and it only takes a little moisture for those sliding surfaces to rust, causing them to catch and bend the entire hinge. Once they’re bent it’s difficult to get them back straight and in a condition where they will work properly. I’ve always just dealt with it but now I’m fixing it once and for all!

I grabbed one of my hinges and tore it apart. I sandblasted all the rust and paint off. The hard part was that the holes where the rivets are were too big for the inner race of the flange bearing to sit on, and without that mating surface the bearing wouldn’t work properly. To fix that I welded all the holes shut, ground the surface flat, then drilled and tapped the holes for an M6 bolt (same size that holds the fender on). 

The bearings in the pictures are too big to use, but the proper bearings are on  order. The bearing I’m going to use is a 6x13x5 flanged bearing. I will only need to drill the existing holes out to the proper 13mm size to press the bearings into the swing arm things. 

Also, while welding the ball stub onto the throttle linkage, it melted the plastic bushing inside. So I tore that apart and ordered the right size bearings to convert that to roller bearing as well! Roller bearing all the things!!!

The possibility exists that I may manufacture and market these as a complete set in the future, but don’t hold your breath. Too many irons in the fire right now!

I need an electronic signal for my arduino gauges so I bought a GM style sender. (It will also have GPS, but this will be used as a backup if GPS is unavailable.) I already did this GM sender mod to my dad’s Celica 4 years ago and we’ve never had a problem with it. I 3D printed a piece to convert the wing shape of the speedometer gear to the square shape needed for the GM sender. The threads on the sender are an exact match for the gear housing. Put it all together and voila! Electronic sender! (I found out later LCE sells a similar electronic sender that already has the correct cable style. Same price, but I already had these parts.)

I found a shifter boot retainer ring in one of my parts cars, but still no actual shifter boot. It was rusty so naturally I just sandblasted it and zinc plated it. Looks awesome! (Though nobody will every see it…)

I bought a throttle cable that has a ball stud on one end. That way I can still use my original pedal. (my Corolla pedal didn’t work out like I imagined) The original ball on the linkage was too big though. I probably could have drilled out the adapter in the throttle cable, but I figured welding was more fun, so I cut off the original and TIG welder the new stud into place. Not the prettiest but that’s ok. This will be zinc plated as well so I sandblasted the whole thing after welding.

I now have more lighting in my garage! I’ve upgraded from having 8 total fluorescent bulbs to having 40 total bulbs! Well, once I buy the bulbs I’ll have that many. But at least the fixtures are there and now I’ll be able to actually see and work at night! Next on the list is to install the swamp cooler in the window. 🙂

I bought and installed new shifter bushings. The bushing on the end of the shifter ball was smashed and definitely needed replacing. While looking online I found that the latest transmissions also have a seat bushing where the W50 only has a spring. Also found a new rubber boot to cover the top of the shifter assembly.

The seat bushing needed to be ground way down to fit and not interfere. Don’t know if it’ll help or hurt, but I still have the original spring. The new ball bushing popped right into place and is now nice and tight! I cut the old boot off, and after spraying some WD-40 on the shifter, the new boot slid right into place! I also painted the top of the shifter housing so it looks nice now too! I still need to find a new boot to go inside to cover the shifter hole in the transmission tunnel. One thing at a time. 🙂

Finally decided on the routing for the Megasquirt ECU and promptly drilled a hole so I couldn’t change my mind any more. I have these really nice Molex bullhead connectors that will work awesome! It’ll go under the fender then follow the factory wiring up under the dash at the passenger feet. The main ECU I’m hoping to fit behind the kick panel. If I’m lucky the fuse/relay panel will fit there as well. I would rather not have it in the glovebox like my Corolla.

I’m debating if I want to move my battery back up into the engine bay, or if I want to leave it in the far back. Decisions decisions…