Had a bolt break off the O2 sensor port on the headers for my 22RE, then broke the other trying to remove it. My O2 sensor is further downstream so it measures all cylinders instead of 1. Decided it was best to just cut it off and weld it shut since I’ll never need it. The remains were ground down further than what’s in the 2nd picture, I just didn’t snap a pic of it. I used a TIG to weld the patch on and didn’t do too bad. It was very minimal grinding to smooth it down. Sandblasted all the old cruddy paint off then painted it with VHT flame proof black. (It’s made specifically for exhaust manifolds.) This should make it look better under the hood!

We also bought a 72 a couple weeks ago and we’ve been using it to design the early (70-75) hood hinges. It’s pretty rusty but it drives and is already converted to EFI with a GM TBI and Megasquirt. It was swapped with a 5 speed transmission, but the transmission mount is all wrong and hangs down really low and drags on everything. I’ve got a 76 xmember and a 74 xmember on the way, and between the two I’ll be able to make the correct xmember. Maybe I’ll draw it up and have my machine shop make a couple for me!

My car made it to the show! Yay! I didn’t take many pictures though. 🙁 I had converted dad’s 77 Celica to distributorless several months ago using my 22R trigger wheel kit, but kept it carbureted. It ran and drove amazing after the conversion! On all my kits I bolt the trigger wheel to the crank pulley. On dad’s, I welded it. Well, my welds broke on the way to the show. Of all the times and places it could have happened! There was nothing we could do on the side of the road so we called a tow truck. Mom went home with dad’s car, and dad went to the show with me.

We were supposed to have several other Celicas at the show as well, but some of them didn’t make it. 🙁 But there were still three of them there!

It’s starting to look like a car again! I started putting everything back together today. Radiator is in, fenders are on, grill and filler panels are on, and the hood is back on. I can’t find my passenger side headlight bezel though. I couldn’t get any of the marker lights to function up front, and it turns out I had unbolted a ground wire last year.

I got the O2 sensor installed and wired in. I did both the heater and free air calibration on the LC-1, but I’m not completely sure if it’s reading correctly. I can’t find my USB/serial adapter to get in and check the programming on it. (The Megasquirt is connected over Bluetooth so I don’t need that adapter for the MS.)

I drove it for the first time today after changing the clutch master cylinder. All I did was go into the road and turn around, but still it moved under its own power!

I’m 99% done with the EFI wiring! I wasn’t able to order in all the connectors I needed in time before the show, so some connections are scabbed together with old connectors. You should always do your best to use new connectors as much as possible. If you can’t get new connectors, at least get new pins and a decent set of crimpers!

The pins that are on the battery are for the EDIS module. That connector isn’t available new, but at least I can crimp new pins.

The fusebox/relay panel is mounted just behind the battery. All the wires run up through the frame tube thing right there, and come out roughly at the same spot where the round bulkhead connector is. All the wires from the fusebox run through two connectors so I can remove the entire harness if needed.

I don’t yet have an electric fan, but I wired in all the provisions I will need (ie a fuse and relay). The fan will be triggered from the FIDLE output in the Megasquirt.

The oil pressure sensor works great, and I have a nice 27 PSI while cranking. (Don’t know how much while running, I didn’t look.)

I still need to wire the capacitive fuel level sender into the Megasquirt. I’ve already modified the Megasquirt, I just need to actually hook up the wires. Calibrating it should be relatively easy. I’m going to empty the tank, then put in 1.5 gallons. That will be my “EMPTY” level. Then I’ll fill it up, and set that as my “FULL” level. The sender has two adjustment pots on it to adjust the two levels, or I’ll just adjust it in TunerStudio.

I wanted to put in a fuel pressure sensor as well, but MS2 only has two spare ADC’s, and they’re being used for oil pressure and fuel level. I’d like to upgrade to MS3, but that won’t be in the cards for a while.

The fuel plumbing is now mostly done. Only one small piece left, and that’s to go from the FPR back to the return line. Need to figure a way to go from ¼" line on the regulator, to the 3/8" aluminum line. Not too tough.

My wife helped me install the fuel filters. We have one filter between the factory low pressure pump and the surge tank, and one filter on the high pressure line right before the fuel rail.

The Megasquirt will sit right behind the kick panel at the passengers feet, and the fuse/relay box will sit right behind the battery under the hood. I need to make the Megasquirt fit a little better behind the panel, but it works just fine for now to just get it running.

I ran a thermostat bypass hose from the underside of the lower intake to the back side of the water pump. This ensures that water will circulate through the block and head allowing it to warm up evenly. This also ensures I have an accurate reading of the actual coolant temperature, which is very important for EFI.

There’s a little bit left to finish off the plumbing for the surge tank. I still need to run wires for the pump, but that’s easy. My original design was too tall to fit under the metal thing in the back, so I cut out about 1.5" and welded it back together. Now it fits nicely. I just need to bend the aluminum lines and connect them, then it’s done in the back!

I don’t think my Celica ever had a heater valve in it. I always just had a “C” clamp and two quarters to shut off the hot water during the summer. I want to be a little less ghetto this time around so I searched eBay and found a heater valve from a Ford something or other. I had to build a bracket and find a molded 5/8" coolant hose that would fit, but it all goes together nicely. The heated coolant will go from the bottom center of the manifold, to the valve, through the heater core, then to the side of the water pump behind the header. I ran aluminum tubing behind the header because it’s too hot back there for rubber hoses.

I will need to buy a new heater control cable that’s a bit longer to reach the new shut off valve, and while I’m buying that, I’m going to replace all the other control cables. That’ll be detailed in another post though.